Schnitzel and Beer Tents

Saturday was my last day in Germany, and I spent most of it in Austria. So I guess it was my last day in Europe, at least for a little while. Wanda and Gert took me down to Salzburg, music capital of Europe. The old part of the city is closed in by cliffs and a river, with a magnificent castle built on the mountain. It’s beautiful. Salzburg is the birthplace of Mozart and today is home to the Julliards of Europe.

Mozart's Birth House

First things first, Wanda and I huffed it up the hill to the top of the cliffs so we could go in the castle. The Hohensalzburg Castle has been around since 1077. Obviously, it’s been changed and added to over the years to get to where it is now. It is also one of the biggest and best-preserved castles in Europe, so if you’re looking to come explore some castles, I would highly recommend this one. There’s even a cable car to get you to the top if you don’t feel like huffing it.

Afterward, we walked right on down through the cemetery featured in The Sound of Music and on to St. Peter Siftskeller, the oldest restaurant in Central Europe. It’s been around since 803 – that’s 1200 years! And I tried my first schnitzel there. It was quite a delicious experience. Not only was the food great, the service was excellent as well. This place has still got it, even after a millennium.

We took a stroll down the main street to walk off all the food we just ate and stopped to try some of the Mozart chocolates (clearly we were really concerned about eating too much). You can find these in almost all the shops, although if you want the really tasty ones, find the shop with the blue ones. It’s right on the end of the street, near the mountain. We crossed over into the new part of the city to see the Mirabell Palace and Gardens. The palace was the summer home of the archdukes living in the Hohensalzburg Castle, even though it’s only like a mile away from the castle. I didn’t notice any significant climate changes. Anyway, this place seems to be a popular site for wedding pictures, and probably receptions as well. There were two couples taking pictures in the gardens. This place also offers an amazing view of the castle, if you’re interested in snapping a good photo.

We went back to Neuötting pretty early, like around 2:30, so I could rest up. Wanda had arranged for me to go to the local festival, which is like a mini Oktoberfest, with the daughter of some good friends. Her name is Valeria, which is actually Italian, but her dad is Italian so that makes sense. Each town has these little festivals, although at different times. They reminded me of our county fairs, except everyone was dressed in dirndls (pronounced dindles) and lederhosen. They typically last a week and have carnival rides and booths and food stalls. The only difference? Alcohol. The main attraction of these festivals is the huge beer tents where people go to listen to live bands, eat dinner, and drink huge steins of beer (there is also a wine tent for the more sophisticated). Since the drinking age in Germany is 16, there is a tent where the majority of the younger crowd goes. That’s where Valeria and I went. We sat down, ordered a pretzel with cheese and a stein of apple juice, and were promptly joined by a German boy. Neither of us knew him and he didn’t understand English. Good thing Valeria could translate. As an aside, she speaks English very well, and she actually came over with Wanda last year and lived in Big Fork with a couple families. She is also very sweet. I enjoyed getting to know her. Anyway, he randomly came and went and was highly entertaining (he insisted he is always like that, and was not drunk… yet). As the night moved on and people started getting drunk and the band started playing better music, people started getting up and dancing on the tables. So of course I joined them on a table of my own. What I didn’t realize is that everyone else was on the benches, not the actual table, so after one song I was asked to get down by security, haha. It was fun anyway and makes for a good story. What did I learn from all this? The Germans know how to have a good time.

Our random buddy, Mike.

I promise that's apple juice!!!

I can’t believe how fast my time in Germany went. To Wanda, Gert, Carina, and Toni: thank you so much for your hospitality and for showing me around your beautiful country. I know I got to experience the best of Germany because of you. I had so much fun and enjoyed getting to know you all a little better. I will be back the moment I am able!

München

The first time I looked at München on a map I thought, “Munchin? What the heck is that?” Well, that’s the place we like to call Munich. Sounds a lot better than Munchin. Friday, Wanda put me on a train and I went solo into the city. It was a bit different being on my own. I had the freedom to go where I wanted, but next time I’ll take someone with me, because it’s always more fun when you have someone to laugh at obnoxious people with (cue large groups of tourists. Now I know how all the locals felt in Spain).

I arrived right in downtown Munich and was there for probably four hours. First, I saw the glockenspiel on the city hall building. It plays at 11:00 and noon, and I got there just in time to hear it at noon. It was really neat. Some guy there asked me to take his picture and then asked if I were a professional photographer. That just made my day. I’ve learned when you start carrying around a nice camera, lots of people ask if you will take a picture for them. It’s all about looking the part, and apparently I do it quite well.

Downtown Munich

Glockenspiel

Then I stopped in a little shop called Dallmayr. Wanda and Carina said I absolutely have to go in there because it smells so good. They were right. It was DELICIOUS! Lots of sweets and pastries everywhere. And the chocolate, oh the chocolate. Everything looked so delectable. I ate a little piece of sweet bread, and it was just wonderful.

Next, I made my way to a park, where I was lucky enough to stumble upon this little man playing the cello. I love, love, love street musicians. Almost as much as I love the street artists. He sounded really nice so I listened to him for a little while. There was a little Asian girl who was just fascinated by him. It was adorable. I’m glad I was there to snap some pictures.

I spent the rest of my time browsing the stores and walking up and down the main street before heading back to the trains. I forgot what the train station looked like, so I walked right past it. Luckily, I gave myself plenty of time. No problems there. My train was a little late, so I ended up missing my connection. Good thing I was only a couple towns away, so Wanda came and got me (she is a saint!). No big deal. All in all, I’d say it was a rather successful day. And now I can say I’ve explored a big, foreign city all by myself. Next time though, I’ll bring a friend.

White asparagus. Yuuuummm.

Dachau

On Wednesday, Gert, Wanda, and I went down to Munich to visit Dachau, the first concentration camp opened in Germany and a model for all other camps. It operated from 1933 to 1945. If you are interested in learning a little more about this particular camp, you can check out this Wikipedia article.

This was a very powerful experience. It rained all day, which set the mood perfectly. This period of history is a dark, sad time. I know I will never fully understand what those people suffered, but I feel like I’ve gained the slightest inclination as to what that ordeal was like. I’ve walked those same grounds, seen the same conditions, and felt the same sadness, although that hardly does it justice.

I realized how blessed I am to live in a time and place where I don’t have to worry about being tortured or killed because of my beliefs or ideas. I don’t have to live in fear, and I am so grateful for that. I hope everyone can see that in their lives as well.

I made a little project out of the photos I took, so here’s a sample of a few.

"Work makes you free."

Do not forget.

High on a Mountaintop

Forgive the cheesy title, but I’m in the Alps! Or I was. I guess this post is an afterthought now, but I was high on a mountaintop a couple days ago. I kept singing “Ricolaaaaaaaa” in my head the whole time, and I had to keep reminding myself that I’m in the German Alps, not the Swiss Alps. Eh, who cares. It’s the Alps either way.

Wanda and I stayed in Garmisch, with Carina and Toni (Gert had to work. Boo). It was incredible. We were smack in the middle of this huge mountain chain, surrounded on all sides. Carina’s home is lovely, with an amazing view of the mountains through the trees. As my mom would say, it doesn’t suck.

Well, since I was in the Alps, that obviously meant I had to climb up them. Ok, we cheated. Carina, Wanda, and I took the gondola. That was my first gondola ride, and coming down felt like a roller coaster! Now it was fun but the best part was at the top. We were at the base of the Alpspitze peak, which is next to the Zugspitze, the tallest mountain in Germany. There is this platform, called the AlpspiX, which sticks out 42 feet over the cliffs. Actually, it’s two platforms that form an X, with one arm higher than the other. All that separates you from the ground 3000 feet below is a metal grate. Can you say vertigo? You step out from the cliff and you just feel your stomach drop. It’s really funny to watch people walk out for the first time. You hear a lot of expletives, followed by apologies, and shrieking, and then the people start creeping forward slowly, clinging to the railing. There was a big, black guy that looked like he was going to be sick. And you never get used to it. I went on the upper one first and then went to the lower one. I stepped out the second time, got dizzy, closed my eyes, and ran all the way to the end. Once you realize how ridiculous you look, you can’t help but laugh the rest of the time.

Zugspitze

The view from up there is just breathtaking. You can see the whole town of Garmisch, and several other towns, plus into more of the Alps. You gotta love the mountains.

Garmisch

On our way back, we stopped at the ski jumps from the 1936 Winter Olympics, which were held in Garmisch. I don’t know how some people can jump off those. That must take a lot of guts.

I ate a traditional German meal of pork roast and dumplings, aka schweinsbraten. So yummy. I think I definitely like German food more than Spanish food. It’s rich without being super heavy, so I don’t feel ten pounds heavier after every meal.

The next morning we went up to King Ludwig’s (king of Bavaria) castle Linderhof, which is more like a mini palace. It’s pretty small, in comparison with other castles, but Ludwig actually lived here, as opposed to some of his other castles that he built just for show. That doesn’t mean that this mini palace wasn’t showy. It was. But it was tastefully done. Well, except for the grotto. That place was really cool but crazy. He had this huge cave built for him (none of the rocks are real) where he listened to Wagner and paddled around on a boat for hours at a time. He even had electricity for the grotto to power his colored lights, but not for his palace. Yeah, he was a little loopy.

Illegal picture inside the castle!!

The grotto.

We were super lucky with the weather. It was beautiful and sunny all morning and then rained just as we got in the car to leave. This was no problem because we just wanted to drive through Oberammergau, the site of the Passion Plays. Every ten years or so, the whole town participates in a production of the Passion of Christ and people come from all over the world to see this show. They just had one in 2010, so around 2020, be there.

Passion playhouse

We also stopped at the Ettal Abbey, founded in 1330. It’s now a boarding school, as well as a monastery, and they brew their own beer to raise money. Carina also swears the cake from a little shop across the street is the best in the valley. Since she lives there, I’ll take her word. Plus, I’ve tried it and it’s pretty darn good.

Mountains, castles, and cake. That’s what you have to look forward to in the Garmisch area. You couldn’t ask for much better.